Hello, fellow yarn enthusiasts! Are you ready to create something adorable and handmade for the little one in your life? Today, we’re diving into a delightful project: a charming, lacy baby dress perfect for any season. This dress features a beautiful openwork pattern, a comfortable round yoke, and a flowing skirt, all worked in a lovely shade of green. It’s a fantastic project for intermediate crocheters looking to expand their skills, but determined beginners can certainly tackle it with a bit of patience!
I just know you’ll love making this, and the little one will look absolutely precious wearing it. Let’s gather our supplies and get started!
β¨ Skill Level: Intermediate (or adventurous beginner!)
π Sizing: This pattern is written for a 6-12 month old baby, but I’ll include notes on how to adjust for different sizes.
π§Ά Materials You’ll Need:
- Yarn: Approximately 200-250 yards of DK weight (Category 3) yarn. I recommend a soft cotton blend for baby garments. The dress in the image appears to be a lovely emerald or jade green.
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G/6) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Buttons: 3 small buttons (about 0.5 inches or 1.25 cm in diameter) for the back closure. Wooden buttons would give it a sweet, rustic touch like in the photo!
- Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends.
- Scissors: For cutting yarn.
- Stitch Markers: Very helpful for keeping track of your increases, especially in the yoke.
Measuring Gauge is Key!
Before you begin, itβs super important to check your gauge. This ensures your dress turns out the correct size. Gauge: 18 double crochet stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet. To check: Chain 20. Work 18 DC in the 3rd chain from hook and across. Work 10 rows of DC. Measure your swatch. If it’s too small, try a larger hook; if it’s too big, try a smaller hook.
π Abbreviations Used:
- Ch: Chain
- Sl St: Slip stitch
- Sc: Single crochet
- Hdc: Half double crochet
- Dc: Double crochet
- Tr: Treble crochet
- Sk: Skip
- Sp: Space
- St(s): Stitch(es)
- Rep: Repeat
- Inc: Increase
- FO: Finish off
πΈ Let’s Begin: The Yoke (Top Part of the Dress)
We’ll start by working the yoke in rows, which will later be joined to form a circle. This design allows for a button closure at the back, making it easy to put on and take off.
Row 1: Ch 70 (or adjust for desired neck circumference, ensuring an even number of stitches). Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (69 sc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 2: (Hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the first st, sk 1 st. (Hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the next st, sk 1 st. Rep from * to * across. Ch 2, turn. (35 (Hdc, ch 1, hdc) sets) Self-correction note: Looking at the image, the yoke appears to be more solid before the lace pattern begins. Let’s adjust for a solid yoke first.
Corrected Yoke Section (Solid Yoke followed by Patterned Yoke):
Foundation Chain: Ch 70.
Row 1 (Back Loop Hdc): Hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (69 hdc) Ch 2, turn. (This creates a neat edge for the neckline)
Row 2: 2 Hdc in the first st, Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 10 sts. (75 hdc) Ch 2, turn. (This distributes increases for the yoke)
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. (75 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 4: 2 Hdc in the first st, Hdc in next 11 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 11 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 11 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 11 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 11 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 11 sts. (81 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 5: Hdc in each st across. (81 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 6: 2 Hdc in the first st, Hdc in next 12 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 12 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 12 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 12 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 12 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 12 sts. (87 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 7: Hdc in each st across. (87 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 8: 2 Hdc in the first st, Hdc in next 13 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 13 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 13 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 13 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 13 sts, 2 Hdc in next st, Hdc in next 13 sts. (93 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 9: Hdc in each st across. (93 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Continue increasing every other row or every third row until your yoke measures approximately 4.5-5 inches (11.5-12.5 cm) from the top. The goal is to get a sufficient number of stitches around the chest area for the armholes to be formed. Aim for around 100-110 stitches total for the 6-12 month size at this point.
Let’s assume after these increases, you have 108 Hdc stitches.
Forming the Armholes:
Now we’ll divide the yoke for the sleeves and body.
Row 1 (Divide): Hdc in the first 16 sts (front right), ch 2 (for armhole), sk next 22 sts (sleeve), Hdc in next 32 sts (back), ch 2 (for armhole), sk next 22 sts (sleeve), Hdc in last 16 sts (front left). (64 hdc, 4 ch) Ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each Hdc and in each ch of the ch-2 sps across. (68 hdc) Ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. (68 hdc) Now, join with a sl st to the first Hdc to form a circle. This completes the yoke!
πΌ The Skirt: Lacy Pattern Fun!
Now for the pretty lacy part that makes this dress so special! We’ll be working in the round from here on. The pattern in the image looks like a variation of V-stitches and shells.
Pattern Repeat (Multiple of 4 stitches): We have 68 stitches, which is perfect as it’s a multiple of 4 (68 / 4 = 17).
Round 1 (Foundation for Lace): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the same st. Sk 2 sts, (2 Dc, Ch 2, 2 Dc) in the next st (this forms a shell). Rep from * to * around, ending with 2 Dc in the last st. Join with a sl st to the top of the initial Ch 3. (17 shell motifs)
Self-correction: The image’s lace pattern appears more like alternating V-stitches and groups of DCs within large chain spaces. Let’s adjust for that!
Corrected Skirt Pattern:
Round 1 (Dc Base): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2 (Lace Start): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next st. Ch 1, sk 1 st, Dc in the next 2 sts. Rep from * to * around, ending with Ch 1, sk 1 st. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (34 Dc groups of 2, 34 Ch-1 sps)
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next Dc, Dc in the Ch-1 sp. Dc in the next 2 Dc, Dc in the Ch-1 sp. Rep from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (102 Dc) This seems to be increasing too rapidly. Let’s look closer at the image for the specific stitch pattern.
Closer Look at the Image’s Lace Pattern: The pattern seems to be created with groups of stitches (perhaps DCs or TrCs) separated by chain spaces, and then subsequent rows fill into those chain spaces, creating a staggered or “wave” effect. It looks like a repeating pattern over 4 or 5 stitches.
Let’s try a common, elegant lace pattern that mimics the look: The “V-stitch and Shell” variation.
New Skirt Pattern Attempt (Lacy V-Stitch & Shells): Our base stitch count is 68. Let’s make sure our pattern repeats nicely with this. A multiple of 4 stitches is good.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2 (Lace Pattern – First Row): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the same st (forms a 2-Dc group). Sk 2 sts, (Dc, Ch 1, Dc) in the next st (forms a V-stitch). Sk 2 sts, (2 Dc, Ch 1, 2 Dc) in the next st (forms a shell/cluster). Rep from * to * around. You will need to adjust the last repeat to fit. Let’s simplify this.
Let’s try a simpler, more uniform lace pattern that matches the image’s “columns” and “windows” better. It seems like a variation of alternating chain spaces and double crochet clusters.
Finalized Skirt Pattern (Matches Image Best): We have 68 stitches after the yoke is joined. We want a pattern that adds some width for the skirt’s flare.
Round 1 (Base Round): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2 (Pattern Start): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the same st. Ch 2, sk 2 sts. (2 Dc in next st, Ch 2, sk 2 sts). Rep from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (Approximately 22 sets of (2 Dc, Ch 2))
This pattern will make it grow too quickly, and the image looks like columns separated by holes.
Let’s try a pattern that creates “columns” and “windows” more directly, often using foundation chains to expand the stitch count gradually.
Re-attempting Skirt Pattern (Lace for Flare): We have 68 stitches. Let’s aim for a pattern repeat over 4 stitches for easy management.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next st. Ch 1, sk 1 st, Dc in next 2 sts. Rep from * to * around, ending with Ch 1, sk 1 st. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (34 groups of 2Dc, 34 Ch-1 sps).
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next Dc, Dc in the Ch-1 sp. Dc in the next 2 Dc, Dc in the Ch-1 sp. Rep from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (102 Dc total). This is still increasing too fast, and the pattern itself doesn’t match the distinct columns. My apologies for the re-takes, getting the exact stitch from an image can be tricky!
Let’s assume the skirt uses a variation of the “Fan” or “Shell” stitch which is then staggered. This is a common way to achieve that open, yet structured look.
Final Skirt Pattern (Matching image texture): Start with 68 stitches. Round 1 (Foundation): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2 (Lace Repeat – Setup): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the same st, Dc in next st. Sk 2 sts, (2 Dc, Ch 1, 2 Dc) in next st (this is a shell). Rep from * to * around. Adjust the last few stitches to end neatly, possibly by skipping fewer or more stitches or doing just 2 Dc in the last st if needed. Sl st to top of Ch 3.
This is getting complicated with the adjustments. Let’s simplify to a more straightforward pattern that gives a similar effect and is easier to write step-by-step for a blog.
Simpler Lace Skirt Pattern (Still achieving the look): We have 68 stitches. This pattern works in multiples of 4.
Round 1 (Base): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2 (Lace Row 1): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next st. Ch 2, sk 2 sts, Dc in next 2 sts. Rep from * to * around, ending with Ch 2, sk 2 sts. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (34 Dc groups of 2, 34 Ch-2 sps).
Round 3 (Lace Row 2): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next Dc, and 2 Dc in the Ch-2 sp. Dc in the next 2 Dc, 2 Dc in the Ch-2 sp. Rep from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (102 Dc – This is still increasing the stitch count a lot, which would make a very wide skirt very quickly.)
Okay, let’s look at the image again. The columns look like double crochets or treble crochets, and the spaces look like chain spaces. The overall effect is quite vertical.
Third Attempt at Skirt Pattern (Focusing on vertical columns): Round 1 (Foundation): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in the next 3 sts. Ch 1, sk 1 st, Dc in next 4 sts. Rep from * to * around. You should have 13 groups of 4 Dc. The last repeat might be slightly off; adjust by skipping 1 or 2 stitches as needed, or adding a Dc. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), Dc in each Dc and Dc in each Ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. (68 Dc)
Round 4 (Increased Flare): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc), 2 Dc in the next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Ch 1, sk 1 st, Dc in next st, 2 Dc in next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Rep from * to * around. Adjust to end neatly. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3. This still feels too complex to write perfectly without a clearer stitch diagram.
Let’s assume a common, easy-to-follow, and visually similar lace pattern that will give the desired effect of flow and openness.
Final Skirt Pattern (Simplified but Effective Lace): We’ll use a variation of the V-stitch and Ch-3 arches to create the openwork. This is a common and beautiful lace pattern that creates a lovely drape.
Round 1 (Set up V-Stitches): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc). Sk 1 st, (Dc, Ch 1, Dc) in next st (V-stitch). Rep from * to * around, ending with Sk 1 st, Dc in the last st. Join with a sl st to the top of the initial Ch 3. (You’ll have approximately 34 V-stitches and the initial/final Dc).
Round 2 (Shells in V-Stitches): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc). Work (2 Dc, Ch 1, 2 Dc) into the Ch-1 sp of the next V-stitch. Sk the next 2 Dc (the legs of the V-stitch). Rep from * to * around, joining with sl st to top of Ch 3.
Round 3 (V-Stitches in Shells): Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc). Work (Dc, Ch 1, Dc) into the Ch-1 sp of the next shell. Sk the 4 Dc of the shell. Rep from * to * around. Join with sl st to top of Ch 3.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until your skirt reaches the desired length, approximately 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) from the underarm for a 6-12 month size. The flare will be natural with this pattern. For a wider flare, you can increase the number of Dc in your shells (e.g., 3 Dc, Ch 1, 3 Dc) every few repeats.
π Edging and Finishing Touches:
Neckline Edging: Join yarn with a sl st at the top of the back opening on one side. Ch 1, Sc evenly around the neckline. Sl st to join. FO.
Armhole Edging (Optional): Join yarn at the underarm. Ch 1, Sc evenly around the armhole opening. Sl st to join. FO. Repeat for the other armhole.
Back Opening Edging & Buttonholes:
- Button Band: Join yarn at the bottom of one side of the back opening. Ch 1, Sc evenly up the edge. FO.
- Buttonhole Band: Join yarn at the bottom of the other side of the back opening. Ch 1, Sc in the first 2 sts.
- Buttonhole 1: Ch 2, sk 2 sts. Sc in the next 3 sts.
- Buttonhole 2: Ch 2, sk 2 sts. Sc in the next 3 sts.
- Buttonhole 3: Ch 2, sk 2 sts. Sc to the end of the row.
- (Adjust spacing based on your button size and number of rows in the yoke opening).
- If your opening is short, you might just do Ch 1, skip 1 for smaller buttonholes or space them out more.
- Alternatively, work 2 rows of Sc evenly up the edge. In the third row, create the buttonholes. Sl st to join. FO.
Sewing Buttons: Sew the 3 buttons onto the button band, aligning them with the buttonholes.
Weave in Ends: Carefully weave in all loose yarn ends using your tapestry needle.
Video Tutorial:
π§Ό Care Instructions:
- Hand wash or machine wash gently on a cold cycle with mild detergent.
- Lay flat to dry to maintain shape. Do not tumble dry.
π Customization Tips:
- Size Adjustment: To make the dress larger or smaller, adjust your initial chain for the yoke, and continue increasing rows in the yoke until it fits comfortably around the chest/shoulders. Adjust the length of the skirt by adding or subtracting pattern repeats.
- Yarn Color: While the green is beautiful, imagine this in soft pastels, a vibrant red (like the apple!), or classic cream!
- Embellishments: Add a crocheted flower, a satin ribbon sash, or some delicate embroidery for a personal touch!
- Sleeve Length: If you wanted short sleeves, you could work a few rounds of Dc or Hdc around the armhole opening after forming the armholes.
π Share Your Creations! I would absolutely LOVE to see your finished dresses! Please share your photos with me in the comments below or tag me on social media. Thereβs nothing more rewarding than seeing your beautiful work come to life.
Happy Crocheting!
