👜 The “Urban Voyager” Multi-Pocket Handbag: A Detailed Crochet Masterclass

Welcome to this comprehensive guide on crafting the “Urban Voyager” handbag. This design is not only elegant but highly functional, featuring a secure zipper closure, a stylish cover flap, and two external pockets for your on-the-go essentials.

Using sturdy polyester macramé cord, this bag is built to hold its structure while looking like a high-end boutique find. Let’s dive into this long-form, step-by-step tutorial.


🧶 Section 1: Materials and Gear

To achieve the professional, structured look of the “Urban Voyager,” your choice of thread and tools is critical.

  • Thread: 5mm Polyester Macramé Cord. You will need approximately 400 grams. This cord is chosen for its durability and its ability to hold a “sculpted” shape without sagging.
  • Hook: 6.0 mm Crochet Hook.
  • Hardware: * 2 Metal D-Rings (or snap rings).
    • 1 Magnetic Lock for the cover flap.
    • 1 Zipper (slightly longer than the bag width).
    • 2 Swivel Snap Hooks (for the long shoulder strap).
  • Notions: Plastic fishing line (monofilament) for sewing, a tapestry needle, stitch markers, and a lighter (to singe the ends of the polyester cord).

📏 Section 2: The Architectural Blueprint

The bag is constructed in one continuous piece that flows from the Front Panel, through the Base, and up into the Back Panel and Cover Flap.

Phase 1: The Front Panel

  1. Foundation: Start with a slip knot and chain 25.
  2. Row 1: Chain 1 (turning chain) and work 25 Single Crochet (SC) into the back loops of the foundation chain.
  3. Rows 2–21: Work rows of standard SC, inserting the hook into both loops. Continue until you have a rectangle that is 21 rows high.

Phase 2: Transitioning to the Base (Row 22) 4. Row 22: To change the direction of your work and create a sharp “fold” for the base, insert your hook into the front loop AND the lower loop (the horizontal bar behind the stitch). Work SC across. You will see a visible line formed by the unworked back loops—this is your base fold. 5. Rows 23–27: Work 5 more rows of standard SC. Your base is now exactly 6 rows deep (approx. 5.5 cm).

Phase 3: The Back Panel & Cover Flap 6. Row 28 (The Second Fold): Repeat the “front loop and lower loop” technique from Row 22. This turns the work upward for the back panel. 7. Rows 29–66: Continue working SC for 38 rows. This long section serves as the back of the bag (21 rows) plus the cover flap that will fold over the front (17 rows).


📐 Section 4: Side Panel Construction

We will now attach the sides directly to the base to create a 3D box shape.

  1. Setup: Re-attach your thread at the edge of the first row of the base (the 6-row section).
  2. Stitching: Work 1 SC into the edge of each of the 6 base rows.
  3. Building Height: Chain 1, turn, and work back and forth for 21 rows. This height must match the height of your front panel perfectly.
  4. Hardware Integration (Row 21):
    • Work the first 2 SC.
    • Place your Metal D-Ring against the work. Work the next 2 SC around the ring, securing it to the panel.
    • Work the final 2 SC.
  5. Repeat: Do the exact same for the second side panel.

🤐 Section 5: The Internal Zipper Housing

For those who want a secure bag, we add a zipper track underneath where the cover flap sits.

  1. Attachment: Locate the row between your front panel and the top of your sides. Re-attach thread and work a row of SC across the opening.
  2. Depth: Work 2 rows of SC total to create a “lip” for the zipper. Repeat this on the back panel side, ensuring the two rows face each other.
  3. Sewing the Zipper: Use plastic fishing line. Fold the ends of the zipper tape downward at a 45-degree angle. Sew straight along the zipper fabric, catching the loops of your SC rows. The fishing line is invisible and incredibly strong.

📱 Section 6: The External Utility Pockets (Make 2)

These pockets are added to the front for style and convenience.

  1. Main Piece: Chain 10. Work 13 rows of 9 SC.
  2. The Border: * Work SC down the side (13 stitches).
    • Across the bottom back-loops (9 stitches).
    • Up the second side (13 stitches).
  3. The Depth Round: Work a second round of SC around the three sides, adding an increase (2 SC) in the two bottom corners. This gives the pocket “volume” so it doesn’t lay flat.
  4. Attachment: Position the pocket on the front panel, starting 2 rows from the bottom and 13 rows from the top. Sew with doubled fishing line, going through every stitch for maximum security.

🪡 Section 7: Final Assembly & The Magnetic Lock

  1. Closing the Gaps: Use the fishing line to sew the sides of your front and back panels to the side panels. Use a “row-to-row” whipstitch for a clean, professional finish.
  2. The Lock: Install the magnetic snap. The “male” part goes on the underside of the cover flap (centered), and the “female” part goes on the front panel, just above the pockets.
  3. The Handles:
    • Short Handle: Crochet a 19 cm Roman Lace Cord (or a thick I-cord). Sew it securely to the top of the cover flap area.
    • Long Strap: Create a 100 cm strap. Use swivel snap hooks on the ends so you can clip it to the D-rings we installed on the side panels.

✨ Section 8: Professional Finishing Touches

  • Singeing: Check every single yarn tail. Trim them to 1cm, then carefully melt the tip with a lighter and press it against the inside of the bag.
  • Alignment: Ensure your cover flap folds squarely over the front. If it feels stiff, you can “steam” the fold line with a steamer (do not touch the polyester cord with a hot iron directly!).

Congratulations! You have completed the Urban Voyager. This bag is a testament to the versatility of crochet—proving that with the right materials and techniques, you can create a piece of high-fashion utility.

Video Tutorial:

What color will you make yours? Tell us in the comments!

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